SKIRT SKILLS
Skirt Block Measuring, Drafting, and Fitting videos
to prepare for
SMARTY PANTS
or TOP CLASS
If you are preparing for Smarty Pants or Top Class but are pretty sure your skirt block isn’t reaching your block fit goals, here are all of the videos and documents from Skirt Skills about measuring, drafting, and fitting your custom-fit skirt block (without all the sewing stuff)- in case that’s easier than going back to your Skirt Skills course. Enjoy!
Lesson 1
Intro to Tool Making
We are going to pause the custom process for quite a while to work on making ourselves a custom patternmaking tool called a skirt block. This lesson is an intro to the tool and how we are going to make it.
Bonus Reading
Time Magazine’s One Size Fits None:
http://time.com/how-to-fix-vanity-sizing/
Lesson 2
Circumferences
This lesson discusses measurements, bodies, what makes patterns work, and the anatomy of a skirt. You'll learn how measuring Bust, Waist, and Hip Circumferences can be misleading, and start to get a better understanding of what is required for a custom fit.
Lesson 3
Cylinder Measuring
In this lesson we make our own tool to record our Cylinder Circumference measurement.
The Tools & Supplies I used in this video are listed below.
Tools & Supplies in this Lesson:
- wear close-fitting clothing (or just your undies!)
- patternmaking paper
- paper scissors
- a pencil
- a measuring tape
- your rulers
- several paper clips (or Wonder Clips)
- scotch tape
- a mirror
Lesson 1
Hiplines & Waistlines
This lesson is an overview of how to find your custom hipline and waistline.
LESSON 2
Preparing for Measurements
In this lesson, we find and trace our hiplines and waistlines with elastic and take some reference photos in preparation for measuring our bodies
The Tools & Supplies I used in this video are listed below.
Tools & Supplies in this Lesson:
- a full-length mirror
- 2 long-ish pieces of elastic (1/2″ wide or narrower is recommended)
- a camera
- non-baggy close-fitting clothing (or just your undies!)
- safety pins
- camera accessories
Lesson 3
Circumference & Vertical Measurements Lesson
In this lesson, we will measure our waistlines and hiplines and the relationship between the two in preparation for drafting our custom skirt blocks.
The Tools & Supplies I used in this video are listed below.
Tools & Supplies in this Lesson:
- a full-length mirror
- non-baggy close-fitting clothing (or just undies!) with elastics in place from the previous “Preparing for Measurements” video.
- a flexible measuring tape
- your measurement sheet
- a pencil
- a measuring partner
- a clipboard
- something to weight down the end of the tape measure
downloadable document
Checkpoint #1
While I encourage you to reach out to me any time with any question or puzzle, Checkpoints let you know a little more specifically about when and how extra support or investigation may offer you extra success at certain points throughout the custom toolmaking lessons.
Checkpoints are optional and cumulative. Get started now, stack them up later, let them inspire you to double check your own work without reaching out, or skip them all together. Up to you!
View or Download the document below for details about Checkpoint #1!
lesson 1
Seams & Darts Lesson
In this lesson, we build upon our toolmaking theory by learning about some vertical guidelines and how we are going to shape the top of the blocky draft to match our bodies using seams and darts.
The Tools & Supplies I used in this video are listed below.
Tools & Supplies in this Lesson:
- printout of my elastics photos (front & side view)
- my clear gridded ruler
- a pencil
LESSON 2
Arc Measurements
In this lesson, we locate and mark our custom side seam and record our Arc Measurements.
The Tools & Supplies I used in this video are listed below.
Updated 6/25/23
Tools & Supplies in this Lesson:
- a full-length mirror
- non-baggy close-fitting clothing (or just undies!) with elastics in place from the “Preparing for Measurements” video
- a measuring tape
- some scotch tape
- a pencil
- your measurement sheet
- a measuring partner
- your rulers
- your elastics photos
- a calculator
- an improvised “plumb bob”
LESSON 3
Dart Measurements
In this lesson, we measure the intakes and lengths of our custom side, front, and back darts in creative ways.
The Tools & Supplies I used in this video are listed below.
Tools & Supplies in this Lesson:
- a full-length mirror
- non-baggy close-fitting clothing (or just undies!) with elastics in place from the “Preparing for Measurements” video
- a combo square tool w/ level
- a hem gauge
- your measurement sheet
- a measuring partner
- a measuring tape
- your elastics photos
- a clipboard
downloadable document
Checkpoint #2
is likely the most helpful Checkpoint of all.
While I encourage you to reach out to me any time with any question or puzzle, Checkpoints let you know a little more specifically about when and how extra support or investigation may offer you extra success at certain points throughout the custom toolmaking lessons.
Checkpoints are optional and cumulative. Get started now, stack them up later, let them inspire you to double check your own work without reaching out, or skip them all together. Up to you!
View or Download the document below for details about Checkpoint #2!
downloadable document
Checkpoint #2
is likely the most helpful Checkpoint of all.
While I encourage you to reach out to me any time with any question or puzzle, Checkpoints let you know a little more specifically about when and how extra support or investigation may offer you extra success at certain points throughout the custom toolmaking lessons.
Checkpoints are optional and cumulative. Get started now, stack them up later, let them inspire you to double check your own work without reaching out, or skip them all together. Up to you!
View or Download the document below for details about Checkpoint #2!
LESSON 2
Skirt Block Drafting, Pt. 2
In this lesson, we will continue drafting the custom skirt block.
The Tools & Supplies I used in this video are listed below.
Tools & Supplies in this Lesson:
- we continue to use everything from “Skirt Block Drafting Part 1”
- a tape measure
- your elastics photos
- a calculator
downloadable document
Checkpoint #2
is likely the most helpful Checkpoint of all.
While I encourage you to reach out to me any time with any question or puzzle, Checkpoints let you know a little more specifically about when and how extra support or investigation may offer you extra success at certain points throughout the custom toolmaking lessons.
Checkpoints are optional and cumulative. Get started now, stack them up later, let them inspire you to double check your own work without reaching out, or skip them all together. Up to you!
View or Download the document below for details about Checkpoint #2!
bonus
Double Checking the Draft
If you are jazzed for even more info, this video is a quick rundown of the entire measuring and drafting process to help sleuth out clues for improvements to your first draft before cutting your mockup fabric.
If your brain is already full, skip it and move on! Fitting is very much a part of the toolmaking process (mockup fittings are magical, ya'll!), so there's no need to answer every question or to solve every puzzle beforehand.
Enjoy (or take the day off!)
downloadable document
Checkpoint #3
While I encourage you to reach out to me any time with any question or puzzle, Checkpoints let you know a little more specifically about when and how extra support or investigation may offer you extra success at certain points throughout the custom toolmaking lessons.
Checkpoints are optional and cumulative. Get started now, stack them up later, let them inspire you to double check your own work without reaching out, or skip them all together. Up to you!
View or Download the document below for details about Checkpoint #3!
Lesson 1
Intro to Skirt Block Mockup Fitting
In this lesson, I'll share an introduction to mockup fitting as we examine our skirt block fit goals. We'll also explore the possibilities and limitations of all the places we can adjust to get a better fit and improve our first drafts and then get started!
The Tools & Supplies I used in this video are listed below.
Tools & Supplies in this Lesson:
- your finished mockup (with no skipped steps)
- fabric scissors
- pins
- pin dish or pin cushion
- pencil
- full length mirror
- camera
- camera accessories
- wrist pincushion
LESSON 2
Fitting Example Pt. 1
In this lesson, I get warmed up by trying on my older mockup and making corrections.
The Tools & Supplies I used in this video are listed below.
Tools & Supplies in this Lesson:
- your block mockup
- your paper block draft
- pins
- a pencil
- full length mirror
- large flat table
- all ruler tools
- all curved tools
- scraps of pattern paper
- threaded sewing machine
- iron
- tape
- wrist pin cushion
- plumb bob
- hand mirror
- spiky wheel
- colored pencils
- wonder clips
- push pins
- reference photos
- waist elastic
- camera
Bonus Links
Threads Video Series Use A Camera to Help Fit:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/2015/02/27/use-a-camera-to-help-fit
The Craft Sessions Our Fear of Going Back:
http://thecraftsessions.com/blog/2017/9/5/our-fear-of-going-back
Happy fitting!
LESSON 3
Fitting Example Pt. 2
In this lesson, I take work through the fitting of my own first draft, making corrections as I go, before completing my block. Use my experiences as inspiration to work through your own fitting puzzles.
Tools & Supplies in this Lesson:
- your block mockup
- your paper block draft
- pins
- a pencil
- full length mirror
- large flat table
- all ruler tools
- all curved tools
- scraps of pattern paper
- threaded sewing machine
- iron
- tape
- waist elastic
- wrist pin cushion
- plumb bob
- hand mirror
- spiky wheel
- colored pencils
- wonder clips
- push pins
- reference photos
- camera
Bonus Reading
Transfer Test Garment Changes to Your Pattern by Sew Stylish:
http://www.sewstylish.com/2017/02/10/sew-along-week-4-transfer-test-garment-changes-to-your-pattern/
The Craft Sessions Our Fear of Going Back:
http://thecraftsessions.com/blog/2017/9/5/our-fear-of-going-back
Happy fitting!
downloadable document
Checkpoint #4
While I encourage you to reach out to me any time with any question or puzzle, Checkpoints let you know a little more specifically about when and how extra support or investigation may offer you extra success at certain points throughout the custom toolmaking lessons.
Checkpoints are optional and cumulative. Get started now, stack them up, let them inspire you to double check your own work without reaching out, or skip them all together. Up to you!
View or Download the document below for details about Checkpoint #4!